皮膚去角質(zhì)功效研究方法及應(yīng)用

[摘要]本文主要概述了皮膚角質(zhì)的屏障功能與代謝機(jī)制，并介紹了皮膚圖像分析法、角質(zhì)層染色法、模擬污漬法、摩擦性能測試法、角質(zhì)剝脫測試法、皮膚切片法、皮膚模型替代法、細(xì)胞生物法、生物化學(xué)法等皮膚角質(zhì)功效評價(jià)方法，提供了去角質(zhì)功效評價(jià)的新思路，展望角質(zhì)管理產(chǎn)品的發(fā)展及研究方向。

[關(guān)鍵詞]皮膚屏障；角質(zhì)細(xì)胞代謝；去角質(zhì)；皮膚脫屑；功效評價(jià)

[中圖分類號]R322.99    [文獻(xiàn)標(biāo)志碼]A    [文章編號]1008-6455（2024）09-0182-04

Research Methods and Application of Skin Exfoliation Efficacy

ZHI Leilei1， JIAO Qian2， MEI Huaqian1， ZHANG Yexiang1， QI Yufeng1， YANG Jie1， JIA Yan2

（ 1.Shandong Huawutang Biological Technology Co.， Ltd， Jinan 250101， Shandong， China; 2.Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resources Research and Development， College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering， Beijing Technology and Business University， Beijing 100048， China ）

Abstract： This paper summarizes the barrier function and metabolic mechanism of skin stratum corneum， and introduces the evaluation methods of skin stratum corneum efficacy， such as skin image analysis method， stratum corneum staining method， simulated stain method， friction performance test method， keratinocyte exfoliation test method， skin slice method， skin model substitution method， cell biology method and biochemical method. It provides a new idea for the evaluation of exfoliation efficacy， and looks forward to the development and research direction of stratum corneum management products.

Key words： skin barrier; keratinocyte metabolism; exfoliator; skin desquamation; efficacy evaluation

皮膚角質(zhì)層，是表皮角質(zhì)形成細(xì)胞分化的終產(chǎn)物，位于皮膚最外層，是皮膚抵御外界刺激第一道防線的“先鋒哨兵”[1]，起著屏障的作用，保護(hù)身體免受惡劣環(huán)境因素的影響，限制水分的散失，防止外界微生物或化合物的進(jìn)入。（剩余10610字）